At nature’s table
Seasonal suppers and foraged finds are at the heart of Marchmont’s award winning neighbourhood restaurant, writes Harriet Bourhill.
Nàdair” is a Scots Gaelic word that means “nature.” It’s also a word that can sometimes feel far removed from the bustle of the capital (especially for those who dare to embark across the George IV Bridge roadworks). But a short journey towards the Meadows and the quieter streets of Marchmont brings you to a restaurant that embraces nature wholeheartedly. Nàdair is an independent neighbourhood restaurant run by chefs Alan Keery and Sarah Baldry.
The menu evolves constantly and highlights the best of local Scottish produce and foraged ingredients, complemented by organic wines and cocktails featuring forage-based infusions. The restaurant’s design is refreshingly simple and neutral, with a Scandinavian influence: sage green walls; plenty of natural light from large windows flanking the entrance; dried flowers suspended on walls, and minimalist dark-wood furniture. And the pared-back decor allows the focus to remain on the food and drink, creating a relaxed environment in which to experience some excellent, seasonal food.
The drinks menu reflects the restaurant’s connection to nature, with hand-labelled bottles of curious house-made infusionsand foraged ingredients displayed on open shelving. The martini, for instance, was made from gorse flowers supplied by a local forager who provides Nàdair with seasonal goods. Buttercup yellow, with subtle coconut and creamy notes, it was a unique and almost fantastical aperitif - unlike anything I have tried before.
For my starter, I chose salt cod and wild garlic,presented as a vivid green purée, topped with crispy wild garlic and nutty skirlie, all resting atop a jammy egg yolk. Another starter option, the ox tongue, was served cubed and fried amid equal cubes of fresh beetroot, crunchy radish and scurvy grass.
As is the case with every dish at Nàdair, the presentation is beautifully crafted. The pollock main tasted fresh from the sea: delicate and pale; served in a smoked butter with celeriac, and sweet chewy seaweed. The alternative main dish of rich and salty pork was paired with sharp chard and potato in a pool of crab bisque.
The almond Bakewell Tart with soft rhubarb and ice cream was a comforting classic, but the Isle of Mull cheddar beignets were the real surprise. Light, deep-fried pockets of cheddar, topped with fluffy shavings of cheese, all resting in sticky truffle honey. I practically inhaled every delightful puff, and my only qualm was there weren’t more of them!
Nàdair’s creativity is being recognised beyond Scotland, having been recently named one of the UK’s best restaurants at the Conde Nast Traveller’s ‘Top New Restaurant Awards’ - the only restaurant from Edinburgh to make the winning list.
With its ever-changing menu and focus on seasonality, Nàdair is a restaurant that rewards curiosity. Visit with an open mind and an empty stomach for the optimum dining experience.
Lunch is served as two (£30) or three (£35) courses. The five course dinner menu is £65, with an optional wine pairing for £45.
This review featured in the May./June 2025 issue of Edinburgh Life
